Being born and raised in Hawaii, I would say have to be a gift. A precious gift that a lot of people I see living here, take for granted. I don’t live there anymore but when I did and flew back to the mainland, everyone would always say how luck I am. I would hear countless stories of families, friends, strangers save up their money and vacation just to come visit here. Here I am, someone who doesn’t have to worry about things like that. Despite the popular vacation spot over here in Hawaii, the one thing I don’t like are the people around me who really doesn’t appreciate it here. I mean they really take it for granted. There are some people I know who are always angry and I mentioned to them, “How can you be angry all the time?” Every morning you get the chance to wake up in Hawaii. How cool is that! I bet there are millions of people out there who would love to trade places with you. Don’t get me wrong, I lived here in Honolulu for the majority of my life and I can understand where they are coming from because no matter where you live at, after awhile you become desensitized to your environment. Sometimes, in order to feel again you have to take some time away. Once your away, you begin to think and realize how good you have it. It’s just like the old say, you will never know how good something is until you lose it. Pretty good quote and its so good that I should make a shirt out it it.
So whenever life gets tough out here, I can always retreat to surfing. I just find it very therapeutic and till this day, I miss it very much. The icing on the cake is that I am able to leverage my passion for surfing into a side business of mine. I am taking my surfing journey and experiences and translating it into an indie film. Film making was something that just resonated with me, in a way surfing does. So I took advantage of the two and decided to fuse them together. So keep an eye out as I will be leaking film projects here and there. Btw, you can surf still in California but like I said, the waves are just not the same as in Hawaii. If you surf too but never been here, then take a look of what your missing out on.