The Ultimate Surfer Board Live


“There it was.Peeking through the ćrepe paper, Sharp and pristine,it lay there glistening in the sunlight. I couldn’t take my eyes off of it, even though I’d wrapped and un-wrapped it multiple times.”


So, I’m your everyday casual guy, Jim. Pure Hawaiian, born and bred.I’m also your everyday surfer guy. You see- Hawaii and surfing go hand in hand. At least for me.

The day I got into surfing, I was hooked. So now you know, me and my Dad have a constant clash regarding a new surf board as a birthday gift- for obvious reasons.

It all started the way it does- It was sunny, the beach was golden and the teal sea looked inviting. My Dad decided to teach me surf-boarding. And honestly speaking, I believe its one of the best things he ever did right. *chuckle*I started off with his old surf-board till the day I finally got mine.

Mine was wonderful- It was a lovely blue with black highlights.You could call it love at first sight.Later, I found out it was the cheapest one at the shop and kind of got dented after a few months. Well, thanks Dad.Its a favourite still, as it was my first.

The second board got stolen, even though I guarded it with my soul.It was a glossy black surf board which was red-striped. I remember begging my mom to get it for me, telling her I ‘need’ a bigger board because I need one, plus I’ve been doing my homework on time and cleaning my room regularly, so I deserved it well. We had a lot of fun together.Now all thats left are memories.

Then, there was a phase when I got busy with life and had to let go of my childhood nuances. Unfortunately,surf-boarding was one of them.When I grew up( and by grow up,I mean actually growing up and evolving), I realised its one of the things I enjoy doing so I have to struggle to keep that spark alive in me. I persisted and tried squeezing out time for surf-boarding.



My Uncle, a quirky surfer himself, noticed and agreed to get me a new board. An ‘upgraded’ one at that. In other words, a sturdy, better and more effective model.

I started off, taking time time off on early weekend mornings and sometimes late evenings. Me and my pastel board would spend hours together sailing the waves. I had fallen in love again.

But, love fades and so did my passion for surfing. I was getting swiftly better at my craft and ached for something that would stand up to my skills. Something mightier. Fiercer. Professional.I saved up enough money to get the ultimate board. Sadly, in a budget I could afford. Saved up all sorts of change I got for treats, gifts, pocket-money and part time jobs.It was time.

I remember sleeping with it that day. Actually cuddling with it beneath the covers. It was my first board that I had dutifully owned. We had our fun days beneath the sun. Improved my skills, impressed the ladies, and became a classic hot-shot.

Till,I won her.Yes, I won her in an annual competition. Eveyone cheered. I received her beaming with pride. She was a beautiful wooden piece,actually yeah, she was quite a piece, with metallic black gliders and a soft monochrome pink body.She completed me.

I gave away my old surf-board, the one I had bought with my own earnings. It was difficult, letting go of it, but it felt good, for our paths together had been walked and all I hoped for was that, that ‘somebody’ benefitted with it as much as I did.

The Risks of Surfing


In Hawaii, surfing is a very popular recreational activity. And as a sport, it continues to grow everyday. Getting barreled by powerful waves under the water brings a lot of joy and experience that cannot be compared to anything else. However, surfing has its own risks and dangers. In my experience, I face some dangers each time each time I go out surfing and I am not talking about drainage problems here in my old uncles voice, who actually owns that place. It is more like the dangers of drowning to the dangers of being eaten by a shark alive, I have to weigh the risks. If you want to wax up your surfing board and head out to the waters, there are some things to look out for.


The number one risk of surfing is sharks. This is because sharks are always lurking in the shallow waters. Sharks have sharp teeth that can not only tear through your board but also, easily rip through your flesh. There are plenty of sharks in the open ocean and therefore, this risk is real. In addition, it is important to note that other marine animals such as stingrays, sea snakes and jellyfish are also a risk in surfing.


As you surf, you risk drowning in the open ocean as well. This may look trivial especially when most surfers know how to swim. However, it is unbelievable that there are some surfers who know how to paddle out but cannot swim and this raises their chance of drowning. Expert swimmers can also drown while swimming. This is especially when there are strong waves and sharp rip current that can fatigue out surfers and cause them to drown. Therefore, young and inexperienced surfers should have someone looking after them as they hit the waters.


Surfboard accidents are also a risk to surfers. Surfboards have sharp noses and heavy weight masses and this poses a risk to surfers. In addition, the boards have sharp fins that can rip flesh from your body. Although Surfboard risks become real when you get run over by one, there are cases in Hawaii where people have suffered concussions after being hit by washed surfboards from the ocean. As a result, you should always wear a leash before going surfing.


Although there are risks associated with surfing, I always survey an area before paddling out. In addition, I make sure that I not only have the right equipments but also that I am fit enough to withstand the conditions of the day. That way, I am able to manage the risks.



Born Surfer Now On Film

Surfer life on film


Being born and raised in Hawaii, I would say have to be a gift. A precious gift that a lot of people I see living here, take for granted. I don’t live there anymore but when I did and flew back to the mainland, everyone would always say how luck I am. I would hear countless stories of families, friends, strangers save up their money and vacation just to come visit here. Here I am, someone who doesn’t have to worry about things like that. Despite the popular vacation spot over here in Hawaii, the one thing I don’t like are the people around me who really doesn’t appreciate it here. I mean they really take it for granted. There are some people I know who are always angry and I mentioned to them, “How can you be angry all the time?” Every morning you get the chance to wake up in Hawaii. How cool is that! I bet there are millions of people out there who would love to trade places with you. Don’t get me wrong, I lived here in Honolulu for the majority of my life and I can understand where they are coming from because no matter where you live at, after awhile you become desensitized to your environment. Sometimes, in order to feel again you have to take some time away. Once your away, you begin to think and realize how good you have it. It’s just like the old say, you will never know how good something is until you lose it. Pretty good quote and its so good that I should make a shirt out it it.

So whenever life gets tough out here, I can always retreat to surfing. I just find it very therapeutic and till this day, I miss it very much. The icing on the cake is that I am able to leverage my passion for surfing into a side business of mine. I am taking my surfing journey and experiences and translating it into an indie film. Film making was something that just resonated with me, in a way surfing does. So I took advantage of the two and decided to fuse them together. So keep an eye out as I will be leaking film projects here and there. Btw, you can surf still in California but like I said, the waves are just not the same as in Hawaii. If you surf too but never been here, then take a look of what your missing out on.