“There it was.Peeking through the ćrepe paper, Sharp and pristine,it lay there glistening in the sunlight. I couldn’t take my eyes off of it, even though I’d wrapped and un-wrapped it multiple times.”
So, I’m your everyday casual guy, Jim. Pure Hawaiian, born and bred.I’m also your everyday surfer guy. You see- Hawaii and surfing go hand in hand. At least for me.
The day I got into surfing, I was hooked. So now you know, me and my Dad have a constant clash regarding a new surf board as a birthday gift- for obvious reasons.
It all started the way it does- It was sunny, the beach was golden and the teal sea looked inviting. My Dad decided to teach me surf-boarding. And honestly speaking, I believe its one of the best things he ever did right. *chuckle*I started off with his old surf-board till the day I finally got mine.
Mine was wonderful- It was a lovely blue with black highlights.You could call it love at first sight.Later, I found out it was the cheapest one at the shop and kind of got dented after a few months. Well, thanks Dad.Its a favourite still, as it was my first.
The second board got stolen, even though I guarded it with my soul.It was a glossy black surf board which was red-striped. I remember begging my mom to get it for me, telling her I ‘need’ a bigger board because I need one, plus I’ve been doing my homework on time and cleaning my room regularly, so I deserved it well. We had a lot of fun together.Now all thats left are memories.
Then, there was a phase when I got busy with life and had to let go of my childhood nuances. Unfortunately,surf-boarding was one of them.When I grew up( and by grow up,I mean actually growing up and evolving), I realised its one of the things I enjoy doing so I have to struggle to keep that spark alive in me. I persisted and tried squeezing out time for surf-boarding.
My Uncle, a quirky surfer himself, noticed and agreed to get me a new board. An ‘upgraded’ one at that. In other words, a sturdy, better and more effective model.
I started off, taking time time off on early weekend mornings and sometimes late evenings. Me and my pastel board would spend hours together sailing the waves. I had fallen in love again.
But, love fades and so did my passion for surfing. I was getting swiftly better at my craft and ached for something that would stand up to my skills. Something mightier. Fiercer. Professional.I saved up enough money to get the ultimate board. Sadly, in a budget I could afford. Saved up all sorts of change I got for treats, gifts, pocket-money and part time jobs.It was time.
I remember sleeping with it that day. Actually cuddling with it beneath the covers. It was my first board that I had dutifully owned. We had our fun days beneath the sun. Improved my skills, impressed the ladies, and became a classic hot-shot.
Till,I won her.Yes, I won her in an annual competition. Eveyone cheered. I received her beaming with pride. She was a beautiful wooden piece,actually yeah, she was quite a piece, with metallic black gliders and a soft monochrome pink body.She completed me.
I gave away my old surf-board, the one I had bought with my own earnings. It was difficult, letting go of it, but it felt good, for our paths together had been walked and all I hoped for was that, that ‘somebody’ benefitted with it as much as I did.